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Evan Wine Savvy

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Home Wine Ratings
Wine Reviews

August 2015

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Australia

87 Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc 2015, South Eastern Australia ($10.95)

For the price, this wine packs a lot of flavour. Light bodied, there is lime, grapefruit, gooseberry, pear, grass and some tropical nuance. Fine length and ready to drink, so make sure to pick up a couple of bottles. (ES)

Canada

White

92 Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay 2013, Short Hills Bench ($29.95)

Made from yields of 2 tonnes per acre and fermented in French oak, this beauty is elegant and concentrated. It reveals a multi-dimensional personality of toast, honey, apple, sweet peach, pineapple, banana, hazelnut, mineral and caper berry. Lobster or crab served with warm butter was made for this wine. (ES)

91 Hidden Bench Chardonnay Felseck Vineyard 2012, Beamsville Bench ($38)

A pale gold colour leads into aromas of peach, orange rind, vanilla cream, banana, red apple, oregano and spice. Concentrated, ripe and elegant, the palate shows more spice and cream, with sound acidity framing everything quite nicely. (ES)

90 Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2013, Short Hills Bench ($19.95)

For the price, this wine packs a lot of punch. Medium body and well balanced, the pineapple, golden apple and honey of the grape is gently caressed by oaky notes of vanilla, spice and toast. On the palate, it is ripe with brisk acid and a long aftertaste of banana cream.  It should evolve well over the next four years. (ES)

90 Stratus Chardonnay 2013, Niagara-on-the-Lake ($48)

A strong oak presence melds with sweet pineapple, ripe peach, banana, tutti frutti, earth and white flowers. Rather fullish, there is some warmth, as well as a creamy finish. Drink now.

90 Norman Hardie County Chardonnay 2013, Prince Edward County ($39)

Classic Hardie style of reductive winemaking in play here. Currently, it is the new wood that dominates, with smokey minerals, lemon, lime and green apple snuggling up.  Bright acidity, fine length and a modest 12.2% alcohol make for a refined drop of Chardonnay. (ES)

89 Westcott Vineyards Estate Chardonnay 2013, Vinemount Ridge ($26)

Toast, peach, honey, anise, baked apple, pineapple and smoke weave together on the nose in this mid-weight white. The palate reveals a creamy texture with a spine of minerality and great length. Cream based dishes are perfectly suited for this wine. (ES)

88 Malivoire Chardonnay 2013, Beamsville Bench ($19.95)

Here you will find a balanced Chardonnay with subtle oak flavours of cream, spice and vanilla that combine with peach, honey, lime, golden apple, cantaloupe, and citrus. Very good length and ready to drink. (ES)

88 Peller Estates Private Reserve Chardonnay 2013, Niagara ($18.95)

Peach, honey, anise, cream, honey, banana and crisp acidity all work together on a medium-bodied frame. Great length and ready to drink. (ES)

88 Westcott Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay 2013, Vinemount Ridge ($20)

Peach, baked apple, cream, tutti frutti, anise, white flowers and honey are all on display in this non-forested Chardonnay. Crisp acidity, a medium body and great length round everything out. (ES)

88 Château des Charmes Chardonnay St. David’s Bench 2012, St. David’s Bench ($19.95)

A complex nose of yellow plum, fresh sliced apple, vanilla cream, honey, lanolin and spice are all in play. Mid-weight, there is sound acidity, and it is ready to drink. (ES)

88 Ravine Vineyard Chardonnay 2013, Niagara ($25)

Some tropical notes combine with caramel, brioche, smoke, apple and citrus. Mid-weight, there is admirable depth and concentration with crisp acidity and a mineral backbone chiming in on the finale. Pair with creamy cheeses or filet of halibut. (ES)

86 Niagara College Teaching Winery Balance Unoaked Chardonnay 2013, St. David’s Bench ($14.95)

Moderately aromatic, this non-wooded Chardonnay serves up aromas of peach, honey, nectarine, tutti frutti and lemon. Medium length, refreshing and ready to drink with chilled shellfish. (ES)

France

White

95 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2005, Champagne ($205.95)

Absolutely brilliant! Comtes is Taittinger’s Cuvee Prestige and is made from 100% Chardonnay. It possesses a pale gold colour with mature notes of toast, caramel, honey, mushroom, chalk, anise and binned apple.  On the palate, there is fabulous length, with well-integrated acidity and a punchy finale. There is at least another decade of life ahead, especially if you enjoy the complexity of aged Champagne. (ES)

92 Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus NV, Champagne ($79.95)

Made of equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, all the grapes were harvested from the top villages known as Grand Crus - hence the name. A medium gold colour and a bouquet of yeast, toast, apple, cream, lanolin, banana cream, cherry and earth beguiles. There is superb length with fresh acid rounding out the experience. (ES)

88 Domaine Laroche Chablis Saint-Martin, Burgundy ($25)

A tad fuller than your typical Chablis. Green apple, lemon, chalky/salty minerals and a slight herbal element are present. Bright acid and fine length make the case for oysters or steamed clams.

Red

94 Château Lamartine Cuvée Expression 2011, Cahors ($41.50)

Two-thousand-eleven was a superb vintage for the region of Cahors. Powerful and concentrated, this 100% Malbec, made from 60-year-old vines exudes blueberry pie, plum and dark cherry jam, vanilla custard, earth and smoke, which carries long into the sunset.  Make sure to pick up a few bottles for the cellar. Drinkability - over the next 20 years! (ES)

90 Château Lamartine Cuvée Particulière 2011, Cahors ($22.15)

A powerful Malbec which will probably appeal more to Argentinean lovers than Francophiles. Full bodied, the wine drips blackberry, blueberry, raspberry liqueur, cherry, spice, vanilla, smoke and molasses. Ripe, there is enough tannin to allow 10 to 12 years of cellaring, but with all of its upfront personality, there is no need to wait.  Cote de boeuf all the way! (ES)

Greece

White

87 Tetramythos Roditis 2014, Patras ($16.45)

Most Roditis tends be a neutral product, but this wine kicks it up a notch with its peach, honey, apple, yeast and mineral profile. Linear, there is fine length and fresh acid. Chill well and serve with fresh water fish or oysters on the half shell. (ES)

Red

88 Tetramythos Agiorgitiko 2013, Peloponnese PGI ($16.70)

Organically grown and fermented via natural yeasts, this is a real crowd pleaser what with all of its cherry, raspberry, chocolate and spice/pepper personality. Fresh acid and soft tannins complete the package. (ES)

87 Tetramythos Black of Kalavryta 2014, Achaia ($17.40)

The Black of Kalavryta is an indigenous Greek grape that almost disappeared a decade ago. Thankfully, a handful of producers have started to repopulate in the vineyards of Achaia, located in the western portion of the Peloponnese. Stylistically, this wine reminds me of a solid Gamay with its pale colour and flavours of cherry, plum, black pepper, spice and red flowers. Soft and easy drinking, it should be served chilled, and paired with charcuterie or tomato based dishes. (ES)

Italy

92 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Enrico VI Villero 2011, Barolo ($90)

Full bodied, this Barolo has seen some new oak in the form of vanilla and cocoa which weaves between the tar, cherry, raisin, plum, anise, cured meats and floral elements. Rich and grippy, there is an exquisite aftertaste and twenty years of cellaring ahead. (ES)

91 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Riserva Camp Gros Martinenga 2010, Barbaresco ($75)

Made in a modern style, the plum, toast, cherry, tobacco and spice qualities are built on a full-bodied frame. There is a sweet mid-palate, superb length with raspberry notes echoing long. All in all, an excellent expression of the Nebbiolo grape. (ES)

91 Boroli Barolo Villero 2011, Barolo ($75)

On the nose, cherry, plum, earth, floral, spice, cocoa and earth reveal themselves. The delicate palate exudes vanilla, cherry and raspberry flavours, which are long lasting. Drink over the next 15 years, (ES)

91 Paolo Manzone Barolo Serralunga 2011, Barolo ($70)

A deep colour paves the way to a complex wine full of cherry, plum, earth, spice, cocoa, earth, vanilla and dark cocoa. There is exquisite length and a grippy finale. Hold until 2017 and then drink until 2030. (ES)

91 Manzone Giovanni Barolo Gramolere 2011, Barolo ($75)

Gramolere is a single vineyard located in the village of Monforte d’Alba. Cherry, vanilla, earth, anise, licorice, bacon fat, smoke, earth and vanilla echo long. Well made in the modern style. (ES)

90 Batasiolo Barolo Briccolina 2011, Barolo ($50)

Elegant and flavorful with vanilla, cocoa, earth, spice, graphite, cherry and pencil shavings working there way out of the glass. It is ready to drink, preferably with Osso Bucco or pot roast. (ES)

South Africa

90 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay 2013, Hemel-En-Aarde ($45)

Hemel-en-Aarde translates as Heaven on Earth and is a cool climate enclave in the Western Cape of South Africa. A golden colour and heavily toasted nose are the first things to greet the senses. Smoke, toast, pineapple, ripe peach, honey, leather, spice and yellow apple are all layered on a medium body full of cream and acid. Excellent length. (ES)

United States

92 Sandhi Bentrock Chardonnay 2013, Santa Rita Hills ($120)

This natural yeast fermented white shows great depth and a profile of peach, lime zest, white chalk, Macintosh apple and herbs. It is mid-weight, with fresh acidity and a long, graceful finish. (ES)

 

July 2015 Wine Ratings

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Australia

89 Kellermeister The Funk Wagon GSM 2011, Barossa ($16.30)

GSM refers to a Southern Rhone inspired blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mataro (Mourvèdre). Full bodied, there is a rich texture and a profile of sweet cherry, raspberry, plum, black pepper, anise and earth. Soft tannins and ready to drink. Pair with baby back ribs or chorizo sausage. (ES)

Canada

White

90 Casa-Dea Estates Winery Eva, Prince Edward County 2014, Prince Edward County ($44.95)

This Chardonnay was made a la Amarone method and clocks in with a warming 14.9% alcohol. Sweet peach, golden delicious apple, pineapple, mango, honey, candied ginger and spice are all present. The palate is ripe and concentrated with some residual sugar and excellent length. Ready to drink. (ES)

90 Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2012, Prince Edward County ($29.95)

Medium yellow colour with the fruit and oak working in tandem to help create a complex wine:  pineapple, golden apple, quince, honeyed peach, vanilla, yeast, toast and spice. The mouthfeel is a combination of creaminess and acidity with the County’s telltale minerality providing a defining undercurrent. A long finale makes a perfect partner with lobster thermidor or salmon topped with hollandaise. (ES)

90 Tawse Oak Aged Chardonnay Icewine 2013, Niagara ($34.95/200ml)

Even though the wine spent six months in new French oak, any trace of wood has been absorbed by the richness of the wine. Pineapple, golden raisin, apple blossom, honey drizzled apricots and peach candy are all present. Full bodied there is freshness which keeps any overt sweetness in check. Excellent length and perfectly suited for cream and custard desserts. (ES)

89 Tawse Limestone Ridge Riesling 2013, Twenty Mile Bench ($21.95)

Made from 15-year-old vines this Riesling displays moderate aromas of lime, lemon, green apple and wet stone. The bright acid, slight sweetness and linear palate make for a fine partner with sautéed scallops or lighter cheeses. (ES)

89 Huff Estates Pinot Gris 2013, Prince Edward County ($20)

A portion of this wine spent eight months in new oak which has imbued the wine with a creamy texture that envelopes the apple, pear, white peach, honey and spice. Medium body, there is great length and enough depth to pair up against cream based dishes. (ES)

88 Casa-Dea Estates Winery Melon de Bourgogne, Prince Edward County ($18.95)

Casa-Dea has now entered the Ontario Melon market with this solid textbook offering. Almost water colour, this zesty white wine reveals green apple, pear, white flower, lemon and salty minerality. Light bodied and dry, there is very good length. Of course, the classic pairing of oysters on the half shell is what is required for this wine. (ES)

Red

93 Pillitteri Estates Riserva Famiglia Cabernet Franc 2010, Niagara ($78)

The grapes for this Amarone-styled red were dried for 26 days before being pressed. Following fermentation, it was aged in French oak for 24 months. Needless to say, this 14.9% wine is a powerful monster redolent with blackberry, plum, dark cherry, cassis, raspberry liqueur, sweet herbs, smokey tobacco and spice. There is brilliant length and enough tannin to age for a decade - at least! (ES)

91 Culmina Hypothesis 2012, Okanagan ($39.95)

For number lovers, this blend of 57% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Franc spent 16 months aging in 70% new French oak. It is a full-bodied offering that exudes dark cherry, blackberry, cassis, plums, chocolate, spice, toast and mint/eucalyptus. It is concentrated and ripe with considerable refinement and suave tannins. Drink over the next five years. (ES)

91 Huff Estates Quarry Road Pinot Noir 2013, Vinemount Ridge ($30)

This wine is the result of a fruit swap between Huff and Tawse wineries. Huff obtained Pinot Noir from the acclaimed Quarry Vineyard in Niagara and Tawse opted for the Chardonnay from the equally prized South Bay vineyard in PEC. It is the epitome of poise and elegance with red fruit, beetroot, mushroom, mineral and vague spice are all built on a medium-bodied frame. Superb length, fresh acid and soft tannins. Drink until 2018. Oh yes, I should also mention that this is the Gold Medal winning Pinot Noir at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards. (ES)

91 Jackson-Triggs Delaine Syrah 2012, Niagara ($32.95)

It is my belief that this is the best Syrah being made in Ontario. Unlike many other renditions, which tend be over extracted and manipulated so as to appear more Shiraz like, this wine embraces its Ontario origins. Full bodied, it busts out the pepper, smoke, hickory, violets, cassis, oregano and raspberry. The tannins are smooth and the flavours echo long. (ES)

89 Tawse Meritage 2011, Niagara ($59.95)

A blend of 36% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Cabernet Franc. It is the Merlot which greets the senses first with damson plum, cherry, blueberry, cocoa and spice. Afterwards, the Cabernets chime in with cassis, raspberry, cassis and roasted herbs. Vanilla and smoke from the oak ties it all together. Very good length, fresh acid and moderate tannins will ensure 5 to 6 years of cellaring, if so desired. (ES)

89 Thirty Bench Small Lot Pinot Noir 2012, Beamsville Bench ($35)

A lovely Pinot that starts off with a perfume of kirsch, plum, black raspberry, beetroot, mushroom and rose. The palate is weighty and chimes in with oak notes of cocoa and spice. Some gritty tannins appear at the end. Pair with grilled quail or duck confit. (ES)

89 Thirty Bench Small Lot Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Beamsville Bench ($45)

Medium plus body, there is a complex nose of cassis, raspberry, vanilla, tobacco, bell pepper and dried earth. Linear, the wine is still tightly wound and tannic, so hold for a couple of years and then drink until 2024. (ES)

89 Southbrook Organic Triomphe Cabernet Franc 2013, Niagara ($21.95)

Mid-weight and smooth drinking, this textbook Franc doles out the cassis, raspberry, herbs, cedar/herbs, pencil shavings, violets and vanilla. Splendid length, fresh acid and fine tannins round out the experience. Pair with a pepper steak or ratatouille. (ES)

Chile

90 Errazuriz Aconcagua Alto Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Aconcagua ($19.95)

Dark ruby, almost opaque with a purple tinge, this Cab is generous but not overt. Full bodied, there is cassis, blackberry, mint/cedar, vanilla, anise, smoke and dark cocoa flavours. There is great length with supporting tannins. A real crowd pleaser and solid value for the price. Drink until 2019. (ES)

Greece

White

92 Hatzidakis Assyrtiko Cuvée 15 2014, Santorini ($35)

This organic wine spent twelve hours on its skins to give more aroma and flavour and eight months on the lees to give more weight. Full bodied, it is stunning, revealing a bouquet of sweet peach, honey, pear, white flowers and candied lemon. Round and smooth in the mouth, the acidity and minerality are tucked nicely beneath. Long finale and still young; it will evolve nicely over the next five years. Pair with shrimp kabobs or pork chops. (ES)

89 Karamolegos Winery Assyrtiko Barrel Aged 2014, Santorini ($34)

Aged in new wood for six months, the mineral, citrus, peach, honey, white flower and grapefruit is supported by vanilla and cream qualities. On the palate, spiced apple and salty rocks add dimension. With its depth and complexity, I suggest pairing with grilled fish topped with lemon and olive oil. (ES)

88 Karamolegos Winery Santorini 2014, Santorini ($30)

There is an almost Grüner quality to this wine; lime zest, white flowers, grapefruit, white pepper, honey and a slight vegetal note work their way out of the glass. Brisk acidity and crystalline minerality carry the finish. (ES)

Red

88 Agiorgitiko by Gaia 2013, Nemea ($19.75)

The Agiorgitiko grape is known for producing supple wines with moderate tannins – case and point, this wine. Aromas of cherry, raspberry, plum, tobacco and vanilla are in play. Ready to drink or hold for up to three years. (ES)

Italy

95 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2011, Piedmont ($150)

My personal favorite of all of Vietti’s Cru Baroli! Powerful, rich, ripe and extracted, this Barolo just flatters with all of its plum, blackberry, dark cherry, tobacco, anise, violets, vanilla and cocoa powder. The palate is already approachable, offering sweet fruit, concentration and an incredible aftertaste. Great now, but it will continue to improve over the next twenty plus years. (ES)

94 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 2011, Piedmont ($150)

Every year, when I visit Piedmont for Nebbiolo Prima, the annual new vintage release tasting of all things Nebbiolo, I always make sure to book a side visit to Vietti. Last year, I was seduced by all their 2010s and can say emphatically that their 2011s are right on par. Rich and layered, there is dark cherry, plum, vanilla, anise, cocoa and mint. Full bodied with a crazy finish and structure to take it 25 years. Absolute brilliance! (ES)

93 Vietti Barolo Brunate 2011, Piedmont ($150)

From a warm vintage come this dark coloured Barolo, which is stacked full of cherry, plum, vanilla, earth, licorice, rose, leather and dried earth. Full bodied with grippy tannins and a superb finale, this wine still needs 3 to 4 years in the bottle and should be drunk of the subsequent two decades. (ES)

Spain

89 Luis Cañas Crianza 2011, Rioja ($17.95)

A blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Garnacha, this wine delivers ripe red fruit qualities along with rose, black pepper, earth, and roasted herbs. It is mid-weight on the palate with uplifting acidity and soft tannins. Ready to drink with red pizza or lamb chops. (ES)

 

June 2015 Wine Ratings

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Canada

White

90 Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2014, Twenty Mile Bench ($17.15)

Gold Medal winner in the Semi-Dry Riesling category at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards. A huge bouquet of peach, honey, mandarin, bergamot, lime and mineral beguils. The crisp acidity is held in check by some residual sugar, but for all intents and purposes, it comes across as a dry wine. All I kept thinking about when drinking this wine was a huge plate of sushi and sashimi. (ES)

89 Henry of Pelham Estate Riesling 2012, Short Hills Bench ($17.95)

A textbook Niagara Riesling that bursts forth with peach, lime, apricot, pear and honey. It comes from a warm vintage, so the acids are slightly lower than usual and there is some residual sugar to balance things off. All and all, another great Riesling from the boys at HOP! (ES)

90 Tawse Quarry Road Chardonnay 2012, Vinemount Ridge ($34.95)

Organic and Biodynamic, the 2012 Quarry Chardonnay is an open an accessible offering with pear, anise, honey, yellow apple, pineapple and vanilla qualities. Medium body, there is excellent length and sound acidity. Perfect with lobster and drawn butter of grilled salmon filet. (ES)

88 Tawse Sketches Riesling 2014, Niagara ($17.95)

The new release of Tawse’s entry level Riesling is a solid offering as per usual. Peach, honey, lime, powdered candies, jasmine, crushed rock and hints of honey find themselves meshing with an electric palate of acidity. There is a hint of sweetness, which reigns everything, as well as a lengthy finale. (ES)

87 Kacaba Vineyards Unoaked Chardonnay, Niagara ($14.95)

This pure expression of Chardonnay exudes lemon, pear, green apple, white peach and smokey minerals. On the taste buds, it is mid-weight and dry with moderate acidity and a lengthy finale. (ES)

86 Kacaba Vineyards Riesling Reserve 2014, Niagara Escarpment ($17.95)

Dry, this Riesling displays moderate aromas of lime, lemon, mineral and peach. It is light and airy on the palate with fresh acidity making it food friendly. Pair with grilled sausages or a mustard and herb crusted rack of pork. (ES)

Red

91 Trius Showcase East Block Cabernet Sauvignon Clark Farm Vineyard 2012, Four Mile Creek ($45)

In all my years of evaluating wine professionally, I have never seen an Ontario Cabernet Sauvignon with such a saturated/black colour. Then again, 2012 was an exceptional vintage for reds. This gold medal winner at this year’s Ontario Wine Award is full bodied with a personality of crème de cassis, raspberry, herbs, mint, dried earth, spice and dried cocoa. The remarkable length and ripe tannins will ensure a decade of positive evolution. (ES)

90 Kacaba Vineyards Merlot Reserve 2010, Niagara Escarpment ($44.95)

Gold Medal winner in the Merlot category at the Ontario Wine Awards - and it is easy to see why! Medium to full body, a perfume of coffee, violets, blackberries, plum, spice, chocolate, roasted nuts and roasted herbs meets up with raspberry and smoked qualities on the palate. Great length and ready to drink now. (ES)

90 Huff Estates South Bay Unfiltered Merlot 2012, Prince Edward County 2012 ($40)

I tasted this wine from barrel last year with winemaker Frederic Picard and at that time I thought that it had the potential to be the best South Bay Merlot to date. Well, I am happy to say that the final product has lived up to my expectations! Medium to full body, there is an underlying linearity and grip to the cherry, plum, cocoa, smoke, tobacco, spice and herbs flavours. Excellent length. Hold until 2016 and then drink until 2021. (ES)

89 Malivoire Gamay 2013, Niagara ($17.95)

The fresh and fruit driven Gamay doles out strawberry, raspberry, cracked pepper, fresh earth and herbs. Light bodied, there is great length. Don’t expect the power of Malivoire’s top end Gamays, but it does deliver in spades on the pleasure/quaffable scale. This wine is made for pasta, pizza and antipasto. (ES)

89 Colio Bricklayer’s Reward Old Farm Cabernet Franc 2012, Lake Erie North Shore ($19.95)

From the good folks at Colio Winery, comes this solid Franc with an enormous bouquet of smokey tobacco, raspberry, cassis, blackberry, herbs and black pepper notes. Very good length and suave tannins bode well for five years of cellaring. (ES)

88 Kacaba Vineyards Cabernet/Syrah 2012, Niagara Escarpment ($30)

The Syrah component dominates the nose with its black pepper, violets, cassis and rosemary. Afterwards, the Cabernet contingent chimes in with raspberry, roasted herbs and tobacco. There is a ripe mid-palate, with very good length and enough tannin to suggest holding until this winter to pair with braised meats and roasts. (ES)

Greece

92 Santo Wines Santorini Assyrtiko Grand Reserve 2012, Santorini ($30)

I have the highest respect for this co-op which represents close to 1000 growers as it always turns out bang for the buck wines. But now they have taken it to the next level with the introduction of this beauty, which blew me away! From 100 year old vines and aged in partial new oak, it features a golden colour and a huge bouquet of toast, peach, bay leaf, honey, golden apple, spice, resin and white flowers. The same flows over onto the taste buds where Assyrtiko’s telltale crystalline/saline acidity carries the long finale. A wild ride in the best possible sense!

92 Hatzidakis Santorini Assyrtiko de Mylos Vielles Vignes 2014

This single vineyard Assyrtiko spent 12 hours on its skins to give more depth before fermentation started via natural yeasts. Full bodied, it exudes yeast, golden apple, ripe peach, lemon, pineapple, toast and spice. An extended finale and thick texture make for a wine that will work with steak or lamb. (ES)

92 Karamolegos Winery Vinsanto 2006 ($40)

Simply put, this is a brilliant stickie! The deep amber colour heralds the bergamot, black tea, mint, raisins, orange marmalade and dried prunes. The 252 grams of sugar is held in check by the fresh acidity. There is one heck of a long finish, which allows for drinking by itself at the end of the meal or with baklava.(ES)

91 Argyros Assyrtiko Santorini 2014 ($21.95)

From one of my favorite producers comes this pristine white with telltale aromas of white peach, citrus, salty rock and honey. The same carries over onto the concentrated palate and is joined by brisk acidity, which puts everything into proportion. It is still tightly wound, so hold for a couple of years and then drink until 2022.(ES)

91 Hatzidakis Mavrotragano 2013

Mavrrotragano, an indigenous red of the island, only accounts for 2% of all plantings. Regardless, it is a high-quality varietal, and growers are starting to plant more. This intense rendition pumps out the dark cherry, raspberry liqueur, plum, tobacco, spice, cocoa and graphite. Concentrated and long, it will age well for 5 to 6 years. A must try! (ES)

91 Domaine Sigalas Santorini 2014 ($24.95)

Without a doubt, Paris Sigalas is a master of Assyrtiko. I had the opportunity to do a mini vertical of this wine (going back to 2008) while visiting the winery this past summer. All wines were impressive, especially the 08, which reminded me of a salty Puligny-Montrachet 1ere Cru.  The current offering is still tightly wound, but at this early stage, there is peach, mint, minerals, apples and citrus, all built on a full bodied frame. Assyrtiko’s intense acid will ensure great longevity. Hold for at least 2 years before opening and then drink until 2024. (ES)

89 Domaine Sigalas Mavrotragano 2013 ($50)

Three different pickings ensured a natural alcohol of 14.5%. The cocoa, smoke and spice from new French oak aging has meshed with the dark plum, sweet cherry, violets and earth qualities of the Mavrotragano grape. Full bodied, there is excellent length and enough tannin to age for 8 years. (ES)

90 Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment 2014 ($29.95)

Partially fermented in new French and American oak and fermented via natural yeasts, this brilliant white doles out aromas of toast, smokey minerals, cream, apple, flowers, apricot and peach. The palate contributes spice and saline acidity. Roast pork or salmon was made for this wine.(ES)

89 Karamolegos Winery Nykteri 2014 ($20)

Nykteri means ‘night-work’ and references the fact that the grapes were harvested and crushed in the evening so as to avoid excessive temperatures and ensure freshness. Karamolegos’ rendition was aged in new oak for three months and serves up a bouquet of peach, bergamot, lemon, vanilla and mineral. The palate is expansive with creamy notes adding extra depth. Splendid length. (ES)

89 Argyros Atlantis White 2014 ($18.95)

This perennial bang for the buck Santorini wine is a blend of 90% Assyrtiko, 5% Aidani and 5% Athiri. It doles out peach, honey, herbs, pear, mineral and floral notes. Elegant, the flavours echo long, with crisp acdity giving lift.  (ES)

89 Gaia Thalassitis Santorini 2014 ($27.75)

Made from 80-year-old vines, this aromatic rendition exudes minerals, apple, lemon, white flowers and pear. Tangy, there is great length. Drink over the next 5 years. Pair with a simple grilled fish drizzled with olive oil and fresh oregano. (ES)

88 Santo Wines Santorini Assyrtiko 2014 ($18)

Santo’s entry level white is the pure essence of Assyrtiko: citrus, white peach, white flowers and crushed volcanic rock. Fine length and crisp acid make for a great partner with fried kalamari or sushi. (ES)

88 Boutari Santorini ($16.95)

A straight-up, well made Assyrtiko with a perfume of peach, honey, apricot, bay leaf and lemon. The palate adds touches of white pepper, grapefruit and green elements. There is very good length and it is ready to drink.(ES)

Italy

94 Pira Vigna Rionda Barolo 2010, Piedmont ($115)

From a top notch vintage, this modern Barolo flaunts sweet cherry, plum, red flowers, anise and herbs. Once it hits the palate, the weight and tannins stand up and carry themselves with refinement, all the way to a lengthy exit. Hold until 2018 and drink for a good two decades. (ES)

92 Vietti Castiglione Barolo 2011, Piedmont ($72)

From a warm vintage comes this forward and soft (for Barolo that is) red with aromas of fraise de bois, plum, cherry, vanilla and tobacco. The palate displays a slight creamy texture with elements of earth, tar, spice and cocoa adding dimension. Excellent persistency and 15 years of life ahead. (ES)

89 Marziano Abbona Papà Celso Dogliani 2013, Piedmont ($19.75)

Dolcetto, like its Piedmontese brother Barbera, has risen from an everyday drink to high-quality juice, in the right hands. Dogliani is the birthplace of the Dolcetto grape and this rendition pumps out blueberry, dark cherry plum, spice, anise, white pepper and cola. Full-bodied, with fresh acidity and medium tannins, this wine will age for a decade if you so choose to. As a side note, while visiting the winery this past summer, I tasted a vertical of this wine, going back to 2004, and all were still incredibly vibrant. (ES)

South Africa

88 Glenelly Grand Vin Chardonnay 2012, Stellenbosch ($19.95)

A mid-weight Chardonnay that wears its oak upfront: toast, hazelnut, smoke and spice. The fruit comes in afterwards in the form of peach, yellow apple, sweet pear and ripe melon. Very good length and balanced with just the right amount of acidity giving a lift at the end. (ES)

 


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Wine Facts

To prevent a sparkling wine from foaming out of the glass, pour an ounce, which will settle quickly. Pouring the remainder of the serving into this starter will not foam as much.